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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.